EVERGLADES PAST AND PRESENT

As anticipated, I could fill this post with yet more bird and gator photos but will spare you the detail – suffice to say “there are lots of birds and animals” here.  

 And some would say a dead Gator is the best sort – so here are 2 types – a skull held by a Ranger and a plate of yummy fried fishy things – including gator.
Brilliant casual fish cafes by the water - fish goes straight from boat to kitchen to plate.  Order at the counter, collect and eat by the waterside on basic wooden benches - Michelin stars be damned.


EVERGLADES PAST

The history of the area around Everglades City is one of long lost Indians, the Caluso, wiped out by Spanish attackers or their diseases, or the American pioneers (fugitives and adventurers) who tamed the swamps and islands for themselves.  Building roads and bridges across the South Florida strip in heat, humidity, swamps, dangerous animals and horrendous mosquito swarms.  They say that one lot of workers would be arriving, one lot working and one lot leaving because they couldn’t stand it!  But it was well paid.

This is the type of country they were dealing with.









One of the best ways we followed the stories was in this amazing store, that is stuffed full of 1920’s to 70’s paraphernalia of living and working as a trader with the Indians and pioneers. 

“Ted Smallwood's Store was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. It remained open and active until 1982. When the doors were shut, 90% of the original goods remained in the store. In 1989 Ted's granddaughter reopened the store as a museum, and today it serves as a time capsule of Florida pioneer history. The centre section of the building remains as Ted would have known it.”





These shelves are just crammed with ancient boxes and containers for everything an isolated community would have needed – anywhere else they would have been specially bought for a museum, but these were just left in the store!







This is one portion of the long building that housed the family, Post Office, general store, kerosene for the generators (no electric here!) and Indian traded goods – the Indians insisting on using silver for their exchanges.



EVERGLADES PRESENT

So nowadays, the few towns such as Everglades City on this West side of Florida, cater to the fishing and hunting enthusiasts – and the wildlife watchers.

Plus a load of tourists from nearby Naples and more civilised condo land, who come to ride in noisy airboats and take pictures of gators – full stop!









These are some of the areas we have taken smaller boats into and walked (heaven forbid!) along boardwalks to catch a glimpse of what the area is like.  To take wilder and longer hikes requires fully waterproof boots, trousers and tracking by the Ranger Stations.  Bit too adventurous for us – this time.






Thought you might like this “Tourist Tree” – because it looks like Brits peeling in the sun!!  A bit harsh I feel! 

And much more like an Aussie comment (sorry Niki!) than an American.

GATORS, CATS AND BIRDS (ZILLIONS)

Afraid next few blogs are going to be pretty boring to those with no interest in wildlife – but twitchers will be on the next plane to Everglades City.  Birdwatching to die for – and in the winter sun too – pretty much idyllic conditions for a winter getaway for us.  For those of us who traipse around Leighton Moss (bird reserve near home) in the freezing cold, hoping for a glimpse of egrets and herons, and getting so excited by the sole Glossy Ibis last winter – guess what, they are all all over the place here.



This little gathering shows the lovely Roseate (ie pink! see far left) Spoonbill, 2 Wood Storks (rare), white ibises and great egret (definitely not rare - although was nearly hunted to extinction to provide nice flowing feathers for the fashionable lady about town).



More pinching of information from Wikipedia - much easier than writing my own blog:-

Plume hunting is the hunting of wild birds to harvest their feathers, especially the more decorative plumeswhich were sold for use as ornamentation, such as aigrettes in millinery. The killing of birds as part of the practice has been condemned and outlawed in some areas.

By the late 19th century, plume hunters had nearly wiped out the Snowy Egret population of the United States. Flamingoes, Roseate Spoonbills, Great Egrets and peafowl have also been targeted by plume hunters. The Empress of Germany's Bird of Paradise was also a popular target of plume hunters.

Victorian era fashion included large hats with wide brims decorated in elaborate creations of silk flowers, ribbons, and exotic plumes. Hats sometimes included entire exotic birds that had been stuffed. Plumage often came from birds in the Florida everglades, some of which were nearly extinguished by overhunting. By 1899, early environmentalists such as Adeline Knapp were engaged in efforts to curtail the hunting for plumes. By 1900, more than five million birds were being killed every year, including 95 percent of Florida'sshore birds.^[1]

Here is a better glimpse of the bald eagle than the blob in a previous post

and the splendidly named yellow crowned night heron.  (OK - I know it looks like any old heron to the non-birder - but trust me.)

(Can you tell I have just discovered how to wrap text around photos - always forget each time I start a new blog! and that italics also relieve the boredom)





Vultures and other raptors fill the air and sit on wires and branches, but just as difficult to identify as ever – twitchers know what I mean.

Before we came, Phil and Joan, our next door neighbours, told us about the Everglades National Park issuing “anti-vulture kits”, to protect cars that the birds were attacking and destroying wipers and rubber surrounds.  (Honest, it’s not a hoax – see link here).  But perhaps we need an anti-heron kit too!




Saw our first ‘Gator – but probably not our last – so expect more photos, if I run out of stuff to fill the blog with.

He is at top of picture - black scaly looking thing.









But the best spot so far, has to be this Bobcat – crept around the tree as we were watching the 'gator scene, above, from a viewing platform.  Am pretty sure they weren’t all just placed there by the Rangers!  But who knows with Disneyland just across the State.









The only other wild cat in Florida is the panther – and, yes, we were amazed to see this sign too on the way here.  But as there are only 50-80 left, chances of seeing one is pretty much zero.

LOTS OF MIGRATIONS

And so we flew South – joining the migration of snowbirds from around North America to swell the winter population of Florida by about 1 million. 

The following is a bit about the human sort according to a Real Estate website

Who Are the Snowbirds?

With baby boomers hitting retirement age in 2011, Florida will most certainly see a population surge, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. By 2025, one in five people in Florida will be elderly. The state is expected to gain 6.5 million between now and then.
But the definition of snowbird is broadening, to include a more diverse group of people, according to evidence from Florida real estate professionals. The National Association of Realtors® (NAR) agrees. Although specific statistics haven’t yet been collected, NAR has assigned them a new identity: the “splitters” (split off from the traditional snowbird market.)
These people range from the hip 30-something New York City investor, to the Chicago baby boomer looking forward to active twilight years, to the family of four from Buffalo seeking a refuge from lake-effect snow.

And who can blame them with the bitter cold of the Northern States.

CAR HIRE

We had an excellent flight with Jet Blue – better seats and leg room than the measly United Airlines from Manchester – and then picked up our car easily, booked via a great website recommended by Rib Roy several months ago. 

Pay attention anyone going to the States and hiring a car – Autoslash is a brilliant broker site that keeps looking for cheaper deals once you have booked and lowering your price accordingly.  We booked a couple of months ago for $450 and after 2 lowering emails we paid around $300.  We took Annual Excess insurance out before going(  CarHireExcess was the best for the US) so that we had no hassle with add on insurances when we got here.

HOME FOR A WEEK

Got to Everglades City – at the end of nowhere USA on west side of Florida.  Our self catering place is River Wilderness – and as it suggests we are by the river and surrounded by wildlife.  Twitcher friends would be in their element – majorly big birds here, such as all sorts of Herons, Ibises, Pelicans, Vultures – and all seen from this decking overlooking the river – even a resident, yellow-bellied sapsucker on our own tree seen here.  Plus, we have to keep a look out for the feathered sort of migrants that pass through here going to and from North and South America.  I blog on the deck and watch the river - Graham sits by pool and watches the river.

Endless fun in the sun

BBQ AT 13 BELOW

Tuesday was coldest daytime in Washington for 2 years, 25F with wind chill factor taking it to 8F – think that is about minus 13 in Centigrade – b..... cold anyway.  But amazingly there is no frost – apparently humidity is too low – so looking out of window to clear blue skies is a bit deceptive – until you go out!!  Glad we packed thermals as have been wearing them full time.

Fortunately we anticipated the cold day and switched tour itinerary to do the planned hike, around nearby swampy/coastal area, on Sunday.  It was 62F that day and sunny, so that we even got a bit sun burned.  We did several miles through woods and along the coast - fellow twitchers would have loved it – they will immediately identify the blob below as a bald eagle!

So, Tuesday we stayed inside and caught up on domestics and repacking for next stage of trip to a much warmer Florida.  Then went over to a friend of Allan and Sue's, Roy, who is king of the BBQ sauce and ribs.  They were the best ever – if we manage to use the barbie this year (just the once in 2012) visitors are in for a treat, as I have the secret recipe and full instructions on how to use it.  Amazing! 

Veggie people look away now.

It was a sterling effort by Rib Roy, considering the temperatures – here he is cooking up the ribs on a lovely sunny day – can’t tell it is mind-numbingly freezing out there on the deck.  Fortunately, we stayed nice and warm in the kitchen and lounge, drinking his great wine and playing with his lovely dog.  BBQ with a difference – us Brits wouldn’t dream of doing this unless it was the height of summer.

4 MORE YEARS

Monday 21st January 2013 - An interesting day spent with 800,000 others (or 500,000 depending on source) watching the Inauguration of President Obama for another 4 years.

We went in by Metro rail from the Pentagon – OK going, but a touch more crowded coming back – think football crowds x 10.  Same souvenir sellers the world over – tacky Obama t-shirts, badges, hats, scarves, etc.  Same queues for rubbish food and drink and same smelly portaloos – the joys of a big event.  But a few dinner party points to say “we were there”.



This line up of Obama supporters welcomed us on to the Mall – bit like our Olympic volunteers – and then others came around giving out flags – so we got our very own to wave at appropriate moments – each time Obama, Michelle or a Clinton appeared.   And got to boo a few token Republicans, not many of them in the crowd!

Lots of black Americans with “Amens” and “Praise the Lords”, but all very friendly and out for a celebration - their equivalent to our Royal occasions.  The same but different.

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As you can see, we were halfway down the Mall – Capitol piccie is on zoom!  you had to pay to be up front – see previous posts for genuine close ups.  But had a big screen nearby to catch the speeches and VIPs (and younger daughter giving a big yawn during her Dad’s speech!) plus Beyonce lip-syncing the Anthem - pathetic! 

Good Inauguration speech, if a little predictable and safe,  and hope he gets to make some of the changes he wanted to do over the last 4 years.

GOD BLESS AMERICA!

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

Spent the day at an amazing private museum set up by one of the wealthiest women in the US (ie pretty wealthy) in the 1930s onwards – to quote Wikipedia (much easier than bothering to create my own blog!)

Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens is a decorative arts museum in Washington, D.C., USA. The former residence of businesswoman, diplomat, philanthropist and collector Marjorie Merriweather Post, Hillwood is known for its large decorative arts collection that focuses heavily on the House of Romanov. Included in the collection are Fabergé eggs and 18th and 19th century French art and one of the country's finest orchid collections.

During her marriage with Davies, who served as the second Ambassador to the Soviet Union in the mid-1930s, she acquired a vast collection of objects from the pre-Bolshevik Russia, including a chandelier from the Catherine Palace that hung in her breakfast nook, and Fabergé art works including the Twelve Monograms Easter egg. Post had her first guests to the house in May 1957 and hosted her first big party there on July 7, 1957. Hillwood quickly gained a reputation as one of Washington's "most extraordinary estates".

Think of all the French, or Russian, pretty and expensive china or porcelain you have seen at Chatsworth, Buckingham Palace, British Museum or gasped at the price on the Antiques Roadshow for a single plate – throw them (well, not actually throw) altogether in a nice house, with a few (lot) of crystal chandeliers, add some priceless Faberge eggs, pictures of the Romanov family, Russian gold and silver chalices, encrusted with diamonds – and you have a day out with your jaw well and truly dropped. 

Oh – and the orchid house was pretty good too – single Slipper Orchid in Silverdale eat your heart out.

And some nice gardens (Sssh! Don’t tell the Yanks, but the Brits do have bigger and better ones) in the winter sunshine + small, but perfectly formed cafe, and you have the makings of another great day out in Washington.



And then, to add to the interest, was a great exhibition by an artist who creates cloth and period costumes from paper only – even the lace and trimmings and shoes you see are paper.  Several of the pieces were placed around the house to illustrate different periods, as well as a special exhibition space.

2013 INAUGURATION–ADVANCE PRESS RELEASE

Washington is awash with preparations for the Inauguration of President Obama in 3 days time (or 2 days officially – the real one takes place on Sunday 20th Jan in front of 200 family and friends) – 20th is official day, but because that is a Sunday the public gets to see it again on Monday – TV calling the shots as usual.
This is the Capitol, with the flags flying and the platform on left hand side where Obama will stand – look at the photos now as there will be no chance of us getting anywhere near on Monday.

When He feels the urge – there are hundreds of mobile toilets all ready for His use, if the man with the scissors arrives with the correct security pass on Monday morning – the loos are all currently fastened with those impossible plastic ties.  Street cleaners, lawn tidiers, seat jet wash cleaners, TV crews, food storage vans, floor layers, barrier people and yet more toilet suppliers, are all making ready for 100,000 people to stand and freeze and watch the big screens. 

No chance of actually seeing the main man unless you have paid $750 – and my cousin has failed to raid his bank account for his loving relatives.  But he has offered gloves, hats, scarves and a promise of a quick retreat to the nearby warm museums if we develop hypothermia.  But we will be there – a special occasion and an honour to take part. 

We have had some great tours, specially arranged by Allan, of the Supreme Court, the Capitol, Senate and House of Representatives, and the Library of Congress – fascinating look at American values and politics.   At one point we saw the guy who is in charge of organising the Inauguration - he looked a little harassed, so we didn't ask him to take a photo of the four of us going through our 20th security checkpoint in the space of     2 hours.

Look out for the following – inside information for you to impress your friends in advance of Monday – our guide (see piccie below) in the Capitol today - will be there at 5.30 am on Monday and will be standing just below the President looking after VIPs – so VI that she has not yet been told who it is!  And the room she is standing in will be where He has His lunch, with the special gold curtains draped behind Him (with a painting that is so secret no-one knows what it will be) – menu is lobster, bison and apple pie.  Again, Allan has failed to get us an invite – and Joan, our American neighbour in Beck Head, has proved just as useless, despite our name-dropping to the security guards. 



There is probably some gambling website that will take your bets on Obama’s lunch menu – so place them now and make some extra pennies.

9/11 AT THE PENTAGON

Although our outstanding memories of 9/11 are of the two towers in New York, it is sometimes forgotten that 184 people lost their lives, when a 3rd plane crashed into the Pentagon and demolished a large part of the building.  Allan often worked there but was fortunate to be in his other office, close by, on that fateful day, with many tales to tell of how the city reacted, including the fact that everyone, including the rest of the staff in the Pentagon, went into work the following day to show that terrorism can never win.

There is now a very moving memorial set outside the Pentagon, in a direct line orientated along the trajectory of the plane and its demolition of the building.  The garden of 184 stainless steel benches, each incorporating a lighted pool of flowing water, are individually named and stand within a field of gravel.



Each of the benches is specifically positioned in the memorial to distinguish victims who where in the Pentagon, from those who were on board the plane – facing away or towards the rebuilt Pentagon and in designated lines according to the age of the person.

 

It was designed by 2 students and selected from 1100 submissions and is quite stunning.  Allan says there is also a very moving memorial chapel within the Pentagon, with a 2 page biography of each victim and that flowers are laid by the benches from time to time amongst the Crape Myrtle trees. 

It’s not on the normal Washington DC tourist itinerary, but should be the top one. 

If you want more information on the garden and the tragedy see this link – www.pentagonmemorial.org